Why Only One Certificate?

Why only one certificate for multi-stone engagement rings? This is something I get asked on a regular basis. Take for example the multiple princess cut diamond engagement ring R1D013 with the channel set shoulder diamonds (a much loved design that never fails to win any heart.) This design holds a central Princess cut diamonds, that is usually GIA certified, sometimes IGI certified, with a much larger diamond to the outer 1.5mm Princess cut diamonds (10 x shoulder diamonds in total) on each shoulder. We only certify the one diamond at the centre. Why? Well, the reason is simple. A diamond grading certificate produced for a larger, better diamond, (we are talking 0.30cts upwards here and above J colour and SI2 clarity) is a much smaller proportion of the cost of the diamond itself, unlike the outer stones. In fact, a diamond grading certificate produced on the outer diamonds (a true diamond report should be produced for each single stone, as opposed to a blanket report on the set) is likely to cost more than the diamonds themselves! Since the diamonds are so small, these are usually uncertified, but matched to an equivalent colour and quality to the central diamond. The most important diamond in the set, that carries the higher value of the stones, is the diamond that is certified for consumer reassurance. GIA being most notable for this, and nicely proportioned to ensure that a suitable fit for the appropriate setting is selected.

Why Such A Difference?

Across the world, there are an enormous range of diamond grading laboratories. Many are legitimate institutions, others are not. Certain worldwide laboratories are deemed more acceptable than others, but not being mentioned here does not mean that other unmentioned laboratories are by any means unrepeatable. Within the diamond industry, most dealers do consider some certification above others. Even on a reputable certificate however, there are still features of the diamond that will reduce the value.

Let us first look at some of the main key differences that sets one laboratory out from another. Firstly there is the issue of clarity. Some laboratories cleverly grade only at 10 x magnification which makes a profound difference with the value of the diamond. GIA, IGI, HRD, AGS and many of the more renowned laboratories tend to grade under high powered microscopic magnification around 300 X by comparison, which means that a GIA graded G colour SI1 clarity diamond, could in effect achieve a VS2 clarity when submitted to an alternative laboratory. Colour grading can also be more lenient.

Another question that is often repeated is with regards to the cut grade. GIA tends to apply this where required to round brilliant cut diamonds, and not fancy shaped diamonds. Some other laboratories do however apply such a cut grade to fancy shape diamonds, but not GIA.

GIA sets itself out from many other institutions by being a non profit making organisation with worldwide educational and research facilities. For many, the logistics of GIA certification of new diamonds polished means that other laboratories, closer at hand are more convenient for report production and return shipping, and for European merchants, IGI provide an ideal solution for shipping to Antwerp with a fairly speedy turn-around time. For retailers and consumers, many of the diamonds in circulation are traded already certified and a finite range that is ever changing means that certain shaped, sizes, specifications etc can be very hard to find. After all, diamonds do not grow on trees and some combinations may just not be possible. This however is where a varied pool of laboratory services, and stock comes into its own. If we were to depend upon diamonds graded by the chosen few laboratories, this would severely inhibit the availability of many shapes, sizes, colours and clarities. Although we should be cautious about standards, sometimes choice and variation is largely a benefit.

Six Claw Twist Rings

6 Claw Twist Ring R1D086

Twist rings are best described as those rings that incorporate either a twist within the setting itself or within the shoulders of the ring most typically. Four claw twist designs are most prevalent, but it is possible to achieve a higher number of claws to create a more secure setting, especially when a larger diamond is being held within the ring. Most usually advised to be made in 950 Platinum for additional strength, the twist design has become one of the most popular choices, and can be seen in a wide range of variations especially with the four claw design. 

This particular design is a simple sweeping six claw style, all one part, within a ring mount that has claws evolving from the shoulders, which run from a 2.5mm wide band. The ring has a court profile for added comfort and the height of the setting is at a level that does not interfere or catch upon everyday objects. This is one of many designs that are offer for sale by Serendipity Diamonds, based in the UK who specialise in very high quality diamond set pieces, at affordable prices, shipped across the world. 

Their ethos, whether it be for a twist solitaire engagement ring, or a multi stone ring, is to provide a very high level of craftsmanship and finish in all items, which are manufactured to order and hallmarked in the UK.

The above style is R1D086 and is available as of November 2011 at Serendipity Diamonds.